11.14
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Hello Mustafa, I would suggest first to decide the reasons for which you want the lens and then set the amount of money you are willing to spend (or vice versa). Use online comparison tools like this offered by the-digital-picture.com site. Choose the lenses you want to compare; take care to compare them with compatible settings/cameras and mouse over the image to see the differences. Photozone is also a trustworthy lens review site. And keep in mind the 80/20 rule i.e., you get 80% of the result, quality, etc with 20% of the effort, money, etc! |
4.82
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Dear Gabriel I guess I found the Nikon lens you mentioned, would you please have a look at it? http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/EQ_TESTS/NIKON_180MM.HTMMoreover like I said above I am planning to buy Canon 760D would that be easy to mount this lens with a Canon using an adapter? Tamron 70-200 mm seems more expensive than Nikon lens am I right? Dear Mustafa, I just answered in a Private message. Feel free to contact me. Clear skies, Gabriel |
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| +1 on the Rokinon...I use the 14mm f/2.8, it has a setting for infinite focusing. |
0.90
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My best lens for astrophotography is the Samyamg 135mm f2. Even wide open it performs very good and at f2.8 it is extremely sharp till the corners of a full frame, with excellent color correction. Moreover it is a very good match for a Star adventurer or similar tracking devices. At f2.8 you do not need extremely long exposures, 60 s is mostly fine, but you can go to 180 s with a Star Adventurer under dark skies. For nightscapes I use a Samyang 14 mm f2.8 (stopped down to f3.2 or f4) or a Tokina 11-16 mm f2.8 (stopped down to f4). Overall the Samyang ( full frame) is better coma corrected than the Tokina (APS-C). More very useful info can be found here : http://www.lonelyspeck.com/lonely-specks-ultimate-list-of-best-astrophotography-lenses/ Cheers Dominique |
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Thanks Dominique for lovely information. I will keep these in mind I already have Tokina 11-16 (never stopped down to 4, I definately will try that way. When you stopped down to 4 does it improve especially on vignetting or what else? THanks Mustafa |
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0.90
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Mustafa, If you stop it down to f 4 the star in the corners are much sharper ( less coma). I think it holds also for vignetting, although this is less visible. Cheers, Dominique |
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Stopping down to f4 I will have to increase the exposure time or ISO, either I will have more noise or trailed stars, is that right? Thanks Mustafa |
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0.90
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Yes, if you increase the f stop from 2.8 to 4 , this is one full stop, you will have to double the exposure or double the ISO . Just experiment with it , to find the best setting for your camera- lens combination. Cheers Dominique |
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| 200 mm may be to much for the adventure to handle, tracking error is approx. 40 arc sec (at least with mine). The stars will be streaked at 200 mm but correctable with motion blur correction tools. I would not go past 85 mm. Most manual Nikon lenses can be adapted to fit Canon. Automatic lenses without manual aperture ring are more difficult to use. |
2.94
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I see many here mentioned Samyang 135 F2, i don't have this lens, but i do have Canon 135mm F2, is this a good lens or no? I have Canon 85mm 1.8 and 70-200 2.8II and 300 2.8 old version, also 100-400 old version, i do have Tamron 15-30 but i never used it yet and thinking to sell it to get another one same lens for a purpose, I also have both Caon TS lenses, 17 and 24II, Also Macro lens 100 2.8 old version, so which one of those do you think better to use for AP? |
11.07
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| For wide-field work I found the Sigma Art 20mm 1.4 totally unacceptable due to coma. The 24mm 1.4 Rokinon however has great corner stars - better than my Canon L zoom lenses by a good bit. |
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Newbie here but I have used the Nikon 50mm f1.8 at f4 no coma at all and the excellent jupiter 200mm f4 with star adventurer and a full frame camera. http://www.astrobin.com/users/Thechosennone/ |
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4.82
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Tareq Abdulla: Hello Tareq! I've never had experience with any of the lens you mentioned, but you do have great glass in there! Based solely on online reviews and other comments I've read, here is my opinion: Canons 135/2 is not the best for astrophotography, but may be quite good once stopped down to 2.8 or 4 70-200/2.8II may prove very nice indeed for tracked shots on a mount, perhaps wide open, or at f3.2-3.5 300 2.8I: stellar performance (although not as much as the newer II version), but at least at f/4 it is very nice, for tracked shots. 100-400 I not as good, although some have had good success with them, but you have better options 24II: if it is the 1.4 lens, it is very nice. If it is the tild-shift you may encounter focusing innaccuracies due to slightest tilt on the lems as it has the mechanism. Don't know how this lenses work, but that's my opinion - please, if anyone has more experience, correct me! If you have a (sturdy) tripod > Keep the lens wide, fast (less than 2.8 preferred); shoot until trailing appears, I's try the 15mm. If you have a tracking mount: for portable star trackers, keep your FL under 200mm, using either the 70-200 or the wide angles; If you have a full size mount, minimally HEQ5/Sirius class, go for it with the 300mm if you wish to shoot targets that this FL frames well, as most of the wide field ones. Might not require guiding, but if you know how to, might render better results. I had to guess because I dunnno about your experience or equipment. ;) Best regards and Clear Skies Gabriel |
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2.94
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Tareq Abdulla:Hello Tareq! I've never had experience with any of the lens you mentioned, but you do have great glass in there! Based solely on online reviews and other comments I've read, here is my opinion: Thank you very much, Gabriel!!!  |
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Samyang/Rokinon/Walimex 135mm f2 . You will find lot of examples here Yes, I also like these lense. Especially on my Olympus Cameras, due the small FT Sensor size it's like 270mm on FullFrame Sensorcameras. Some day's ago I do a widefield on Leo Triplet - and I have uploadet the full size: (F/2.8 4 Minutes ISO400) http://astrob.in/285523/0/ To go a step down I also use the famous mFT 75/1.8 lenses. Siegfried |
