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ZWO 183 MC Pro question

astropilch
09 Oct, 2019 19:08
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Hello

I`ve recently acquired a ZWO 183 MC Pro. I image under Bortle 6 skies, not great but certainly useable. I`m also using the Skytech L Pro filter. I`ve yet to use it but i`m wondering if anyone else is using the same camera?
I have a Samyang 135 mm f 2 ED UC lens / A TS 65 Quad / Borg 60 ED f4.1 astrograph. Does anyone care to share there settings? Gain / Offset?

Clear skies
Alan
Edited 09 Oct, 2019 19:09
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Farrell56
10 Oct, 2019 00:14
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Hello Alan

I Have the same camera, Captured NGC7380 on Monday. Just remember to get Darks, Flats, and Bias before Processing or a not to good picture you will have..

Good Luck and Clear Skies
Farrell
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bennyc
10 Oct, 2019 10:16
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Hey Alan,

I have the monochrome version of the same camera for a while now. When it comes to settings, there's 2 things you need to be aware of:
  • banding artifacts at low gain[/*]
  • amp glow at medium-high gain[/*]

Most of the time I use unity gain (111) with default offset. Half unity (54) and double unity (178 )  and anything in between work fine too, but above that you lose too much dynamic range for DSO work and the amp glow becomes difficult to manage quickly, below that the banding becomes a problem (I had to throw away a night's worth of data because I accidentally set gain to 0, and it was just too horrible to fix up in post)

finally, because of the amp glow is very nonlinear, do NOT scale/optimize your darks. That includes calibrating your flats with bias and scaled versions of the masterdark. Instead capture dark flats, you don't need bias anymore then (note: this is generic advice for most cameras with strong glow, I use the same process for my ASI294MC).

references: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/616524-sub-exposure-tables-for-the-zwo-asi183mm-and-qhy183m-and-colour-versions/
Edited 10 Oct, 2019 10:17
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kingjamez
18 Oct, 2019 19:35
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I've got both the color and monochrome versions of the ASI183. I use 111 gain, offset 10 exclusively on both cameras. This is a good camera for short focal lengths.
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MikeF29
18 Oct, 2019 22:47
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I agree with Jim and Benny. In my case I have learned that shorter exposures really make a difference as it is easy to oversaturate those small pixel wells. I do not process with bias frames and use unity gain and the default offset, I believe it is 10. Really does work well with short focal lengths. I did some work at -0- gain one time with unusable results. Terrible banding.

good luck and Clear Skies!
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MikeF29
18 Oct, 2019 22:47
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I agree with Jim and Benny. In my case I have learned that shorter exposures really make a difference as it is easy to oversaturate those small pixel wells. I do not process with bias frames and use unity gain and the default offset, I believe it is 10. Really does work well with short focal lengths. I did some work at -0- gain one time with unusable results. Terrible banding.

good luck and Clear Skies!
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astropilch
19 Oct, 2019 14:10
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Hello
Thanks for the replies. I've taken various darks varying between 30 secs and 240 secs all at 111 gain and default offset.
I'm still yet to actually use the camera. Fingers crossed for some time this week....

Clear skies
Alan
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StevenP
19 Oct, 2019 15:00
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Micheal,

  I have the same camera when you say short exposures how many and how long are we talking. I’m using the default 10 setting and 10 min exposure and have a lot of amp glow. Fortunately it all came clean with calibration.

Clear skies!
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astropilch
19 Oct, 2019 23:49
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Do you have any pics to show? I've yet to actually take an image 😡
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StevenP
20 Oct, 2019 03:50
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Alan

no not yet just got it.

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bennyc
20 Oct, 2019 08:12
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Alan, as an example here's my M101 and M51:

https://www.astrobin.com/399868/
https://www.astrobin.com/398529/

I used 120s exposures back then.
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MikeF29
23 Oct, 2019 21:25
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Hello StevenP...

Sorry for the late reply.  I am still a novice imager but I use 1-minute subs primarily to keep the star color as good as I can get it and it also keeps the stars smaller which are two of my largest concerns as I learn how to do this better.  I do generally use fast optics like either f/5.3, f/4 or f/2.3 so I can still collect a lot of data with the shorter subs.

I find that if I do longer subs I get bloated stars and the color is totally blown out.  So to get the faint stuff, I have to take many subs and I would say I always shoot for 8-hours minimum integration time.

I also do not use bias frames in my calibration and that results in no amp glow, which was terrible otherwise.

I hope that helps a little...
CS,
Mike
Edited 23 Oct, 2019 21:35
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khrrugh
23 Oct, 2019 21:37
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finally, because of the amp glow is very nonlinear, do NOT scale/optimize your darks. That includes calibrating your flats with bias and scaled versions of the masterdark. Instead capture dark flats, you don't need bias anymore then (note: this is generic advice for most cameras with strong glow, I use the same process for my ASI294MC).


Benny, this is the explanation i am searching for several month. I am so incredible thankful. If we ever meet in real life, i owe you a beer (or whatever your favourite drink is). Thanks a lot for pointing out that the ampglow is nonlinear. This explains a lot of strange effects. Thank you!

I am still a novice imager

  Of course, Mike... 
Edited 23 Oct, 2019 21:37
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bennyc
23 Oct, 2019 21:41
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If we ever meet in real life, i owe you a beer (or whatever your favourite drink is).


I'll gladly drink an Orval with you and talk AP if you are ever in the area of Ghent ;-)
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explorer7377
25 Oct, 2019 12:23
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I use the 183 on the 8" RASA. Amazing results. See below
300 sec subs shot at gain 54 - https://www.astrobin.com/yt9uqn/?nc=user
45 sec subs shot at gain 111- https://www.astrobin.com/j71iib/?nc=user
60 sec subs shot at gain 111 - https://www.astrobin.com/p3zty9/?nc=user

I've used darks, bias and flats. Interesting comments above about using dark flats instead of bias, so I'll have to try that next outing. I did get some amp glow on the 300 sec subs but was minimal and darks took it right out. All the others I didnt have any glow.
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