Canon 2000d max exposure time before heat dmg Canon EOS 2000D · JRB · ... · 6 · 367 · 1

JRB 0.00
...
· 
·  1 like
·  Share link
Hey guys, quick Q,


First post and very new to AP so sorry if obvious/in the wrong sub forum:/ 


I'm a little nervous pushing my DSLR (unmod canon 2000d) past 2min exposures, is this a smart expectation to reduce overheating and excessive heat noise, or can I push to 3-4min exposures with a 1min interval for cooling? 

I live in the UK and the ambient temp is usually quite low in the early hours of the morning, don’t know if that contributes? 

thank you so much in advance!
Edited ...
Like
barnold84 10.79
...
· 
·  3 likes
·  Share link
Hi James,

Don't worry, you can easily go beyond 2 mins and no need for "interval" cooling. I'd even recommend to you to use Bias frames "only" instead of Darks. I'm regularly doing so and also just recently with my two cameras (2000D and 250D). Here are two examples:

A Thousand Worlds, Abell 2666 & 2634
and
The North America Nebula Complex (don't write stock DSLRs off!)

Hope that helps.

Björn
Like
mstaniek 1.20
...
· 
·  2 likes
·  Share link
My photos on 2000d and 1100d are 300 seconds each. I think this is okay. Check out my portfolio and judge for yourself
Like
JRB 0.00
...
· 
·  1 like
·  Share link
Thanks guys huge help!
Like
Bibabutzemann 1.51
...
· 
·  3 likes
·  Share link
Cooldown phase is useless. Just one image after another, it will not overheat or anything.

Im also a 2000D user. It has exceptionally low thermal noise compared to most other DSLRs, so good choice!

With software like APT it displays the temperature of your camera (i will call it "sensor temp", but im not sure where exactly canon measures the temp) .
Darks are useful for me when the sensor temp is above 22-23C, especially in dark skies or when using a Dual Narrowband Filter.

To demonstrate how high sensor temp affect your image, here a comparison of two stacks of two different nights but same integration time and without using darks:
Left had a average sensor temp of 29C (warm Summer night above 20C air temp) and right 16C (8C air temp)
16Cvs30C.jpg
As you can see, the higher temperature causes that red gradient towards the edges of the image. When you notice that on your stack, i would add dark frames to your calibration.. You dont have to do it on the same night. Just note the air temperature during image session and do your darks at same temperature.
For the image to the right, i dont bother with dark frames, as it will more likely do more harm than any good.

Cheers Patrick
Edited ...
Like
JRB 0.00
...
· 
·  1 like
·  Share link
Thanks Patrick that’s super helpful and those side by sides are great examples! 

I guess it’s just nerve racking paying thousands on gear and worrying you’re going to fry your camera from doing anything longer than 3min exposures 


really appreciate all the support 


James
Like
sony_alpha_guy 0.00
...
· 
·  3 likes
·  Share link
Hey,

i also use the Canon EOS 2000d and do exposures of 5 min. Without breaks. U can do it.

Greets
Jan
Like
 
Register or login to create to post a reply.