Below are two bias frames taken on my new QHY Minicam8M. The top one has 0.25 seconds of exposure, and the bottom has 0 seconds of exposure. See the gradient in the bottom one? The right side is darker.  Also, when zooming in, notice how the noise pattern in the 0 second image is funky:  Lastly, here is the histogram of the 0.25 second image:  And the histogram -- at the same zoom level & horizontal position -- of the 0 second image:  Assuming that my minicam isn't defective and this behavior can be seen in all minicams, then just a PSA that you should take your bias frames with an exposure length longer than zero seconds. I have found that 0.25 seconds is sufficient, but I don't know if that's the ideal length. Not sure if this has been documented elsewhere yet, so I decided to make a post about it.
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A bias frame is taken at the shortest exposure of the camera, specified by the manufacturer. Your camera have 11μs-900sec. miniCAM8 (IMX585) | QHYCCD Astronomical & Scientific Camera |
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Or better yet scrap the BIAS frames and do darkflats. I don't see why one would shoot BIAS with a cooled camera anyway.
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Hi, the QHYCCD technician suggests that bias should be taken within 20 ms.
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Jan Erik Vallestad:
Or better yet scrap the BIAS frames and do darkflats. I don't see why one would shoot BIAS with a cooled camera anyway. because they watching too many lazy YouTubers… 😉
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Jan Erik Vallestad:
Or better yet scrap the BIAS frames and do darkflats. I don't see why one would shoot BIAS with a cooled camera anyway.
because they watching too many lazy YouTubers… 😉
Lol me too  |
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Iosif Bodnariu:
A bias frame is taken at the shortest exposure of the camera, specified by the manufacturer.
Your camera have 11μs-900sec.
miniCAM8 (IMX585) | QHYCCD Astronomical & Scientific Camera This is not true. Many cameras enter different modes depending on exposure length, which can mess with your bias frames. In the QHY driver, this is called "Stream mode."
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Jan Erik Vallestad:
Or better yet scrap the BIAS frames and do darkflats. I don't see why one would shoot BIAS with a cooled camera anyway. Assuming that you're dithering, why would you take darks (or darkflats) at all with a camera that has zero amp glow?
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Noah Tingey:
Assuming that you're dithering, why would you take darks (or darkflats) at all with a camera that has zero amp glow? As far as darks go because is better this way and costs nothing and for darkflats because you'll get a precise calibration with your flats.
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Iosif Bodnariu:
A bias frame is taken at the shortest exposure of the camera, specified by the manufacturer.
Your camera have 11μs-900sec.
miniCAM8 (IMX585) | QHYCCD Astronomical & Scientific Camera As has just been experimentally confirmed, the shortest possible exposure will not produce a result that will adequately correct the real bias signal of longer exposures. The point of taking calibration frames isn't to conform to convention, it is to correct your exposures. Shortest possible exposures here will invariably produce uneven flat field correction across the frame and will introduce a gradient that did not exist in the lights. There is no reason to do this. In Noah's 0.25s example, there is absolutely not going to be any significant dark current so there is nothing wrong with using that as a bias. This is precisely the reason why for years I have suggested taking 0.2s+ bias exposures - there's nothing to lose and you can avoid issues with stream modes and other short-exposure variability.
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Jan Erik Vallestad:
Or better yet scrap the BIAS frames and do darkflats. I don't see why one would shoot BIAS with a cooled camera anyway. With even an elementary analysis of the signal components associated with bias and dark flats, you will find that they are effectively identical. There is no significant additional contribution from dark current at reasonable temperatures (even uncooled with the 585) that could change the calibration frame. Dark flats on cameras that have near-zero amp glow and very low dark current are effectively just bias. There's no reason to spend any additional time taking new dark flats all the time to exposure-match your flat frames. This also does nothing for the primary use for bias (with this calibration routine) being light correction. Most people do not take darks with these types of sensor, and for good reason.
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