Imaging telescopes or lenses: Takahashi TOA 130 NFB TOA 130
Imaging cameras: ZWO ASI 1600mm cool pro ASI 1600
Mounts: Astro Physics AP Mach 1 GTO with GTOCP3
Software: Pixinsight
Filters: Astrodon LRGB Tru-Balance E-Series Lum
Accessory: Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2 · Baader/Astro-Physics Vario Guider · Takahashi 67 Flatner 67 Flatner
Frames:
Blue: 49x300" (gain: 139.00) -18C bin 1x1
Green: 22x300" (gain: 139.00) -18C bin 1x1
Astrodon LRGB Tru-Balance E-Series Lum: 96x300" (gain: 139.00) -18C bin 1x1
Red: 42x300" (gain: 139.00) -18C bin 1x1
Integration: 17.4 hours
Bortle Dark-Sky Scale: 6.00
Astrometry.net job: 4168482
RA center: 12h 22' 52"
DEC center: +15° 49' 21"
Pixel scale: 0.782 arcsec/pixel
Orientation: -3.114 degrees
Field radius: 0.312 degrees
Resolution: 2103x1960
Data source: Backyard
Close in for an aggressive crop from a 5" scope that is....I have been looking at images of M100 lately...its a favorite of mine. I have seen many images taken with big scopes, and each time I see such an image that is well liked I inadvertently compare it to my image, taken with a 5" scope. I ask "How does it compare?" I think very well, from the surrounding fuzzies to the spiral structures in the core. Of all the images I have posted, I think this one is the best as far as maximizing detail and depth with a small scope while not over (or under) processing. Its not the most dramatic, sharpest, or widest but I don't think I can improve upon it with the data at hand. That is a rare thing for me. I guess I could reduce the subtle noise in the darker regions of the spiral arms. But numerous attempts have resulted in an overall reduction in image quality each time. The one thing I wish I had done is capture Ha.
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