Maybe I'm asking too much from this telescope (AT72EDII) [Deep Sky] Acquisition techniques · frankszabo75 · ... · 19 · 1415 · 3

frankszabo75 1.20
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I've recently acquired this telescope, but I still haven't made much of imaging with the AT72EDII.  I hoped for a short refractor for larger DSO's, but it seems like this telescope produces very large stars, compared to what I'm used to. I even searched astrobin to look at what others got using this telescope and surprisingly I see the same theme.  Mid-size and large stars look very big in it.  Maybe I'm used to the Newtonian, but then I also imaged with my Svbony 80ED and the stars don't look that big. 

When I asked someone, he said "It's a short/cheap refractor, what do you want? " I had the W.O. Z61 about 2yrs ago, and I don't remember having the stars this big either. 

I checked the spacing of the flattener several times and I tried different cameras (I have 4), but the results are the same. Even a very short exposure (5-10 seconds) produces stars that just look too big.  
I tried a different flattener (W.O. Flat 73A, since it's nearly for the same scope under W.O. brand ), but things didn't improve either. I was hoping that things could improve since it's a X1.0 with no reduction, but things look the same anyway, the stars seem to be bloating.  

I thought I've been spoiled by the Newtonian and the RC scope and they only look big for me, but still, if I attach the Svbony scope which is similarly priced 80mm;  and supposed to be "worse" glass (FPL 53 lanthanum vs FPL51) , the stars aren't bloating as much. 
Anyone has any ideas what's going on?
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andreatax 7.90
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Maybe you got a lemon? It happens...
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Mintakaite 0.00
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I've recently acquired this telescope, but I still haven't made much of imaging with the AT72EDII.  I hoped for a short refractor for larger DSO's, but it seems like this telescope produces very large stars, compared to what I'm used to. I even searched astrobin to look at what others got using this telescope and surprisingly I see the same theme.  Mid-size and large stars look very big in it.  Maybe I'm used to the Newtonian, but then I also imaged with my Svbony 80ED and the stars don't look that big. 

When I asked someone, he said "It's a short/cheap refractor, what do you want? " I had the W.O. Z61 about 2yrs ago, and I don't remember having the stars this big either. 

I checked the spacing of the flattener several times and I tried different cameras (I have 4), but the results are the same. Even a very short exposure (5-10 seconds) produces stars that just look too big.  
I tried a different flattener (W.O. Flat 73A, since it's nearly for the same scope under W.O. brand ), but things didn't improve either. I was hoping that things could improve since it's a X1.0 with no reduction, but things look the same anyway, the stars seem to be bloating.  

I thought I've been spoiled by the Newtonian and the RC scope and they only look big for me, but still, if I attach the Svbony scope which is similarly priced 80mm;  and supposed to be "worse" glass (FPL 53 lanthanum vs FPL51) , the stars aren't bloating as much. 
Anyone has any ideas what's going on?



Hey, can you post few tests images from the scope? Recently even I purchased a doublet (WO Z73) and have issues with star shapes. I had emailed WO and they have given some suggestions which I'll do once the weather clears. Image samples may be helpful to diagnose the problem.
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Dark_Dust 1.43
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Rajat Kumar:
I've recently acquired this telescope, but I still haven't made much of imaging with the AT72EDII.  I hoped for a short refractor for larger DSO's, but it seems like this telescope produces very large stars, compared to what I'm used to. I even searched astrobin to look at what others got using this telescope and surprisingly I see the same theme.  Mid-size and large stars look very big in it.  Maybe I'm used to the Newtonian, but then I also imaged with my Svbony 80ED and the stars don't look that big. 

When I asked someone, he said "It's a short/cheap refractor, what do you want? " I had the W.O. Z61 about 2yrs ago, and I don't remember having the stars this big either. 

I checked the spacing of the flattener several times and I tried different cameras (I have 4), but the results are the same. Even a very short exposure (5-10 seconds) produces stars that just look too big.  
I tried a different flattener (W.O. Flat 73A, since it's nearly for the same scope under W.O. brand ), but things didn't improve either. I was hoping that things could improve since it's a X1.0 with no reduction, but things look the same anyway, the stars seem to be bloating.  

I thought I've been spoiled by the Newtonian and the RC scope and they only look big for me, but still, if I attach the Svbony scope which is similarly priced 80mm;  and supposed to be "worse" glass (FPL 53 lanthanum vs FPL51) , the stars aren't bloating as much. 
Anyone has any ideas what's going on?



Hey, can you post few tests images from the scope? Recently even I purchased a doublet (WO Z73) and have issues with star shapes. I had emailed WO and they have given some suggestions which I'll do once the weather clears. Image samples may be helpful to diagnose the problem.

*** what did good ole WO suggested ? Did they acknowledged all their ZS73 have pinch optics?  Or that their reducer for it is pure garbage ?

I also have a Zs73, I also have bloated huge stars and I had pinch optic too.

***
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Tapfret 4.95
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Its funny you mention the z61 not having the star bloat issue. I relegated mine to a guide scope for that exact reason.
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Mintakaite 0.00
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Karl Theberge:
Rajat Kumar:
I've recently acquired this telescope, but I still haven't made much of imaging with the AT72EDII.  I hoped for a short refractor for larger DSO's, but it seems like this telescope produces very large stars, compared to what I'm used to. I even searched astrobin to look at what others got using this telescope and surprisingly I see the same theme.  Mid-size and large stars look very big in it.  Maybe I'm used to the Newtonian, but then I also imaged with my Svbony 80ED and the stars don't look that big. 

When I asked someone, he said "It's a short/cheap refractor, what do you want? " I had the W.O. Z61 about 2yrs ago, and I don't remember having the stars this big either. 

I checked the spacing of the flattener several times and I tried different cameras (I have 4), but the results are the same. Even a very short exposure (5-10 seconds) produces stars that just look too big.  
I tried a different flattener (W.O. Flat 73A, since it's nearly for the same scope under W.O. brand ), but things didn't improve either. I was hoping that things could improve since it's a X1.0 with no reduction, but things look the same anyway, the stars seem to be bloating.  

I thought I've been spoiled by the Newtonian and the RC scope and they only look big for me, but still, if I attach the Svbony scope which is similarly priced 80mm;  and supposed to be "worse" glass (FPL 53 lanthanum vs FPL51) , the stars aren't bloating as much. 
Anyone has any ideas what's going on?



Hey, can you post few tests images from the scope? Recently even I purchased a doublet (WO Z73) and have issues with star shapes. I had emailed WO and they have given some suggestions which I'll do once the weather clears. Image samples may be helpful to diagnose the problem.

*** what did good ole WO suggested ? Did they acknowledged all their ZS73 have pinch optics?  Or that their reducer for it is pure garbage ?

I also have a Zs73, I also have bloated huge stars and I had pinch optic too.

***

So after exchanging few emails they suggested to loosen up set of front screws holding the lens. One other suggestion which they have asked me to do is to try imaging with an unmodified DSLR. I am not sure it will help.. but lets see. Also, my issue is not just with the bloat but with the weird star shapes.  From the internet forums, my understanding is that pinched optics produce diffraction spikes around the stars. I think my problem is somewhat different - my stars are not round.  An eg. of it is here https://www.astrobin.com/b1llpp/C/#r0

Interesting that you mention the reducer. I am not using the reducer but their 73A flattener. I am just experimenting now and checking if by adjusting the back focus I can obviate some of these issues. But honestly, I am at my wits end. Did you have any difficulty in adjusting the back focus or the recommended values from WO worked for you?

Also, do you think a mono camera would help to overcome these issues? Sooner or later I would be shopping for a dedicated camera. Initially I was convinced to get an OSC camera but now with this scope I am now thinking of getting a mono camera. I have noticed that even you are are using mono version of ASI533. 

Any lead would be very helpful. Thanks
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Astro_Dans 0.00
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Youre using an IR/UV cut right?

Doublets wont correct fully on either end, so theres a built-in potential for bloat. Not filtering out IR/UV will make it worse.
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Dark_Dust 1.43
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Rajat Kumar:
Karl Theberge:
Rajat Kumar:
I've recently acquired this telescope, but I still haven't made much of imaging with the AT72EDII.  I hoped for a short refractor for larger DSO's, but it seems like this telescope produces very large stars, compared to what I'm used to. I even searched astrobin to look at what others got using this telescope and surprisingly I see the same theme.  Mid-size and large stars look very big in it.  Maybe I'm used to the Newtonian, but then I also imaged with my Svbony 80ED and the stars don't look that big. 

When I asked someone, he said "It's a short/cheap refractor, what do you want? " I had the W.O. Z61 about 2yrs ago, and I don't remember having the stars this big either. 

I checked the spacing of the flattener several times and I tried different cameras (I have 4), but the results are the same. Even a very short exposure (5-10 seconds) produces stars that just look too big.  
I tried a different flattener (W.O. Flat 73A, since it's nearly for the same scope under W.O. brand ), but things didn't improve either. I was hoping that things could improve since it's a X1.0 with no reduction, but things look the same anyway, the stars seem to be bloating.  

I thought I've been spoiled by the Newtonian and the RC scope and they only look big for me, but still, if I attach the Svbony scope which is similarly priced 80mm;  and supposed to be "worse" glass (FPL 53 lanthanum vs FPL51) , the stars aren't bloating as much. 
Anyone has any ideas what's going on?



Hey, can you post few tests images from the scope? Recently even I purchased a doublet (WO Z73) and have issues with star shapes. I had emailed WO and they have given some suggestions which I'll do once the weather clears. Image samples may be helpful to diagnose the problem.

*** what did good ole WO suggested ? Did they acknowledged all their ZS73 have pinch optics?  Or that their reducer for it is pure garbage ?

I also have a Zs73, I also have bloated huge stars and I had pinch optic too.

***

So after exchanging few emails they suggested to loosen up set of front screws holding the lens. One other suggestion which they have asked me to do is to try imaging with an unmodified DSLR. I am not sure it will help.. but lets see. Also, my issue is not just with the bloat but with the weird star shapes.  From the internet forums, my understanding is that pinched optics produce diffraction spikes around the stars. I think my problem is somewhat different - my stars are not round.  An eg. of it is here https://www.astrobin.com/b1llpp/C/#r0

Interesting that you mention the reducer. I am not using the reducer but their 73A flattener. I am just experimenting now and checking if by adjusting the back focus I can obviate some of these issues. But honestly, I am at my wits end. Did you have any difficulty in adjusting the back focus or the recommended values from WO worked for you?

Also, do you think a mono camera would help to overcome these issues? Sooner or later I would be shopping for a dedicated camera. Initially I was convinced to get an OSC camera but now with this scope I am now thinking of getting a mono camera. I have noticed that even you are are using mono version of ASI533. 

Any lead would be very helpful. Thanks

*I think your optic are pinched.  Pinched optic create diffration spike, but ugly one. If you really zoom in, you will see that your stars actually look like stars but draw by a 3 years old lol.

You should check on youtube, there is a guy with a good video about fixing the ZS73 pinched optic.  Be carefull tho, there is 2 sets of screw and I did move the wrong one.  I had to collimate my scope after that mistake.

But to be honest, you will never achieve perfect star with that scope.  You will just learn to fix in post processing.  you can use shorter exposiure to reduce the bloat, or extract your stars when you stretch your image and then recombine so you "control the bloat effect".  you can also use BlurXterminator in Pixinsight, it help a lot.

Dedicated camera will help you to improve every aspect of your astro-imaging.  Mono will always give you better result but take longer and the price tag is higher.  If you get a nice camera with a new sensor like the 533, you will save a lot of time because you dont need dark.

If you have the money, go for it.  But dont forget, no mather what your camera is, your image will always be as good as your optics are.  it is true for AP as it is true for normal photography.

KArl
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frankszabo75 1.20
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Ok, so after going back to my post, since I'm the original poster of this thread, I tried another flattener with it (FLAT 73A from W.O.) and I'm seeing the same thing. Even though the scope is Astrotech brand.  The stars are too big. It could be just my perception though, I'm not sure. 

I have one more flattener I will try and see what happens. I'm waiting for a clear night. 

Here is the Pinwheel Galaxy, all I did was just a basic stretch in Pixinsight (EZ-Soft stretch)

I think these stars just looks to big? 

Someone tell me this scope is capable better than this.

https://www.astrobin.com/hpc2zj/
Edited ...
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Astro_Dans 0.00
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Filtration? 

Color cameras will bloat stars in doublets, but as stated, a non-filtered color camera with a doublet will have massive stars.
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andreatax 7.90
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·  1 like
Ok, so after going back to my post, since I'm the original poster of this thread, I tried another flattener with it (FLAT 73A from W.O.) and I'm seeing the same thing. Even though the scope is Astrotech brand.  The stars are too big. It could be just my perception though, I'm not sure. 

I have one more flattener I will try and see what happens. I'm waiting for a clear night. 

Here is the Pinwheel Galaxy, all I did was just a basic stretch in Pixinsight (EZ-Soft stretch)

I think these stars just looks to big? 

Someone tell me this scope is capable better than this.

https://www.astrobin.com/hpc2zj/

Two things to notice:

1. As others said, your objective cell is too tight and that gives the weird shape you're observing. To be honest this would be for me a red flag and I'd send the telescope back pronto (if bought new).

2. Your secondary spectrum is probably too wide and that gives raise to the apparent star bloating. If anything I'd try a filter such as the Baader Semi-APO which has been shown to contain secondary spectrum. No guarantees here as you didn't produce enough info to draw a conclusion on where the culprit lies.
Edited ...
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frankszabo75 1.20
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andrea tasselli:
Ok, so after going back to my post, since I'm the original poster of this thread, I tried another flattener with it (FLAT 73A from W.O.) and I'm seeing the same thing. Even though the scope is Astrotech brand.  The stars are too big. It could be just my perception though, I'm not sure. 

I have one more flattener I will try and see what happens. I'm waiting for a clear night. 

Here is the Pinwheel Galaxy, all I did was just a basic stretch in Pixinsight (EZ-Soft stretch)

I think these stars just looks to big? 

Someone tell me this scope is capable better than this.

https://www.astrobin.com/hpc2zj/

Two things to notice:

1. As others said, your objective cell is too tight and that gives the weird shape you're observing. To be honest this would be for me a red flag and I'd send the telescope back pronto (if bought new).

2. Your secondary spectrum is probably too wide and that gives raise to the apparent star bloating. If anything I'd try a filter such as the Baader Semi-APO which has been shown to contain secondary spectrum. No guarantees here as you didn't produce emough info to draw a conclusion on where the culprit lies.

I've already RMA-d the first one and this is the replacement, because it had pinched optics, which was far more obvious. I'm not seeing pinched optics here.  There is no weird shape, just stars bloating. UV/IR filter was used and 60second exposures at gain 100 on the asi533mc pro. 
This image is also with the AT72's own flattener/reducer, but trying the W.O. flattener (which is 1.0X)  produced nearly identical results.

I also suspect you are mixing me up with someone else posting into my thread his own problems.
Edited ...
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frankszabo75 1.20
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Ian McIntyre:
Its funny you mention the z61 not having the star bloat issue. I relegated mine to a guide scope for that exact reason.

It did have some, I probably have a few images somewhere with that. But it wasn't this extreme.
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andreatax 7.90
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I also suspect you are mixing me up with someone else posting into my thread his own problems.


I was looking at you image of m101 to draw my conclusions. To me is textbook case of tight cell. Just take pictures of an (way) out-of-focus bright star at the zenith and you'll see.
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frankszabo75 1.20
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andrea tasselli:
I also suspect you are mixing me up with someone else posting into my thread his own problems.


I was looking at you image of m101 to draw my conclusions. To me is textbook case of tight cell. Just take pictures of an (way) out-of-focus bright star at the zenith and you'll see.

Should I just loosen the cells?  I mean, this is a replacement scope already to a first one with worse problems, I don't know if asking for another makes any sense, it seems like they 're all like this?
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andreatax 7.90
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Should I just loosen the cells? I mean, this is a replacement scope already to a first one with worse problems, I don't know if asking for another makes any sense, it seems like they 're all like this?


I don't know how easy or difficult is doing it without creating further problems. If you feel confident in doing it then do go ahead. Or return it, if you can.
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frankszabo75 1.20
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I couldn't help but to look. I've done this already and have the tools (lens caliper).  Well, the 4 x2 plastic screws around were completely loose, which is ok as far as the lens shouldn't be too tight, but the lens still didn't move. There should be a small movement by shaking it, at least feel a tiny movement.   
As it turns out, those screws won't make a difference whether they are loose or not, if the large retaining ring behind the second objective lens is ultra-tight via a retaining ring, squeezing the 2 lens together. 

That's where the caliper came handy and I slightly loosened it, as it was extremely tight. Immediately I felt  the pressure on the lens were gone, I'm talking about a small fraction of a turn on the retaining ring. 
Then, I tightened the small plastic screws, to a point where they just barely making contact with the primary lens, so the lens have that fraction millimeter of space if they need to expand a bit.  
The plastic screws are actually a good idea instead of metal, since it allows pressure without cracking the lens. 

A few more things though.  Looking the lens under light, I noticed smudges in the inside lens near the retaining ring, it looked like either glue or some sort of grease, I don't know. It might be the compound goop they use in the factory, to secure the retaining ring, preventing to get too loose.   It's similar to Locktite you can buy in a hardware store. 

I ended up using my sensor cleaner kit, and the swipes to get off the goop, carefully wiping with one that is soaked with sensor solvent and then wiping it dry with a dry swab.  It has to be done carefully, not to damage or scratch the coating on the glass.   It looks perfect now. 

Now, I want to test it on a star, so hopefully tonight there will be some break among the clouds and see if my tweaks done any good (or bad). 

I know my keyboard looks dusty, but it's a super bright light, I use it to inspect optical parts of my gear.  It will reveal any dirt or dust, I use it to check my camera sensors too, when I notice too many dust motes in my images. 

That's the retaining ring I'm talking about and if you notice that goop applied in the threads, that might have contaminated the lens on the edges inside that I managed to clean off. 
IMG_4004.JPG
Edited ...
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Dark_Dust 1.43
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I couldn't help but to look. I've done this already and have the tools (lens caliper).  Well, the 4 x2 plastic screws around were completely loose, which is ok as far as the lens shouldn't be too tight, but the lens still didn't move. There should be a small movement by shaking it, at least feel a tiny movement.   
As it turns out, those screws won't make a difference whether they are loose or not, if the large retaining ring behind the second objective lens is ultra-tight via a retaining ring, squeezing the 2 lens together. 

That's where the caliper came handy and I slightly loosened it, as it was extremely tight. Immediately I felt  the pressure on the lens were gone, I'm talking about a small fraction of a turn on the retaining ring. 
Then, I tightened the small plastic screws, to a point where they just barely making contact with the primary lens, so the lens have that fraction millimeter of space if they need to expand a bit.  
The plastic screws are actually a good idea instead of metal, since it allows pressure without cracking the lens. 

A few more things though.  Looking the lens under light, I noticed smudges in the inside lens near the retaining ring, it looked like either glue or some sort of grease, I don't know. It might be the compound goop they use in the factory, to secure the retaining ring, preventing to get too loose.   It's similar to Locktite you can buy in a hardware store. 

I ended up using my sensor cleaner kit, and the swipes to get off the goop, carefully wiping with one that is soaked with sensor solvent and then wiping it dry with a dry swab.  It has to be done carefully, not to damage or scratch the coating on the glass.   It looks perfect now. 

Now, I want to test it on a star, so hopefully tonight there will be some break among the clouds and see if my tweaks done any good (or bad). 

I know my keyboard looks dusty, but it's a super bright light, I use it to inspect optical parts of my gear.  It will reveal any dirt or dust, I use it to check my camera sensors too, when I notice too many dust motes in my images. 

That's the retaining ring I'm talking about and if you notice that goop applied in the threads, that might have contaminated the lens on the edges inside that I managed to clean off. 
IMG_4004.JPG

Let me know when your test is done, I am curious and I will try it if your result are good.

And btw I think you (Original poster) and the other member that kinda "hijaked" your tread have the exact same issue.
And I do have the same issue as both of you.  I have better star now, but noting is perfect so.

I also think it doesn't really matter, the AT72 and the WO73 are the same stuff with slightly different glasses and look.  Both are probably produced at the same place by the same ppl.  

Did you damage the lens ring (at the bottom)?

Please tag me in your answer if you dont mind so I get a notif.

KArl
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frankszabo75 1.20
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·  1 like
Karl Theberge:
I couldn't help but to look. I've done this already and have the tools (lens caliper).  Well, the 4 x2 plastic screws around were completely loose, which is ok as far as the lens shouldn't be too tight, but the lens still didn't move. There should be a small movement by shaking it, at least feel a tiny movement.   
As it turns out, those screws won't make a difference whether they are loose or not, if the large retaining ring behind the second objective lens is ultra-tight via a retaining ring, squeezing the 2 lens together. 

That's where the caliper came handy and I slightly loosened it, as it was extremely tight. Immediately I felt  the pressure on the lens were gone, I'm talking about a small fraction of a turn on the retaining ring. 
Then, I tightened the small plastic screws, to a point where they just barely making contact with the primary lens, so the lens have that fraction millimeter of space if they need to expand a bit.  
The plastic screws are actually a good idea instead of metal, since it allows pressure without cracking the lens. 

A few more things though.  Looking the lens under light, I noticed smudges in the inside lens near the retaining ring, it looked like either glue or some sort of grease, I don't know. It might be the compound goop they use in the factory, to secure the retaining ring, preventing to get too loose.   It's similar to Locktite you can buy in a hardware store. 

I ended up using my sensor cleaner kit, and the swipes to get off the goop, carefully wiping with one that is soaked with sensor solvent and then wiping it dry with a dry swab.  It has to be done carefully, not to damage or scratch the coating on the glass.   It looks perfect now. 

Now, I want to test it on a star, so hopefully tonight there will be some break among the clouds and see if my tweaks done any good (or bad). 

I know my keyboard looks dusty, but it's a super bright light, I use it to inspect optical parts of my gear.  It will reveal any dirt or dust, I use it to check my camera sensors too, when I notice too many dust motes in my images. 

That's the retaining ring I'm talking about and if you notice that goop applied in the threads, that might have contaminated the lens on the edges inside that I managed to clean off. 
IMG_4004.JPG

Let me know when your test is done, I am curious and I will try it if your result are good.

And btw I think you (Original poster) and the other member that kinda "hijaked" your tread have the exact same issue.
And I do have the same issue as both of you.  I have better star now, but noting is perfect so.

I also think it doesn't really matter, the AT72 and the WO73 are the same stuff with slightly different glasses and look.  Both are probably produced at the same place by the same ppl.  

Did you damage the lens ring (at the bottom)?

Please tag me in your answer if you dont mind so I get a notif.

KArl

No, there is no damage to the lens, you either seeing the reflection or glare  or that sticky stuff on the retaining ring, I'm not sure what you're referring. 

I did a few test shots last night, although it was semi clear only, there were a few minutes of clear between the clouds. 
Unfortunately it doesn't look much better at all. I tried it with the original reducer/flattener as well as I tried my Svbony reducer/flattener too. Interestingly with the Svbony, the stars appeared better than the dedicated Astrotech reducer at the center, but it didn't correct the edges, with elongated stars and I tried with a few mm added and then removed. 
With the dedicated flattener I have to say I have not noticed any improvement as far as star-size and shapes.   
LOL, it's basically looks the same, like I did nothing to it. 
I'm not sure what to blame anymore, if it's the lens, if it's the flattener or both. I'm gonna try the W.Optics flattener too, since I have it, but I don't have high hopes, since I've already tried that at 3 different backfocus settings. The backfocus settings only changes the corner stars a bit,  it just never gets round,  while the center stars are still bloating, just like with the original flattener.

I also tested for collimation, but that's fine. Centered a star and checked for roundness and the rings around the centroid.   I'm pretty much convinced that there is absolutely no way to collimate these anyway, I noticed with my Zenithstar 61 also in the past. The plastic screws around the objective lens only keep the lens tightness, does not change the collimation.  I tested this in the past with the Z61, turning the screws all over changed absolutely nothing.  Not to mention, they were completely loose, I mean so loose that they weren't touching anything, they were just hanging in there. 
Just knowing this, these telescopes are very cheaply made , including this and any other variation of them, including the William Optics  series. 

I shoot mainly with Newtonians for specifically for this reason, since any "budget" (That includes scopes with $600 price tag) refractors are not worth the money they are asking for.  It's literally a lottery game now, whether you get a well corrected one or a complete junk.  I see the ods of 1 out of 5 chance, that you eithe get a good one or bad one. I avoid buying W.O. and now I have to add Astrotech.  In the future, I will probably get either Stellarvue or something more premium to avoid poor quality control. 

This is my 4th short refractor and out of the 4, only one works as intended, so I start to advise beginners to avoid these telescopes to avoid these quality control issues. Basically don't buy a telescope under a $1000.   Or buy a Newtonian and spend another $800 on accessories and upgrades  to make it imaging-ready.. Sad, but true.
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RafaDeOz 6.32
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I had the chinese version of this scope (Sky Rover brand). I had the same issues. Stars were too bloated. I did use uv/ir cut the optics did lack some quality I think. Not a bad scope at all. Chromatic aberration was well controlled considering a doublet.
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