Can anyone comment on the setup im thinking of getting? This is my first experience with AP Generic equipment discussions · wafflewizard1 · ... · 17 · 666 · 0

wafflewizard1 0.00
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https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Tjf7IDL0982H7m2GEr5tzeLEtTdn8RMWpv7W2o7ffXc/edit?usp=sharing
Any commenting would be appreciated as although ive done a lot of research, I still dont know if this is a compatible or efficient setup. Please let me know it'd mean a lot!
Cheers
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KuriousGeorge 1.20
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Setup depends in part on what you like to shoot and how dark your skies are. Sun, planets, moon, galaxies, nebula?
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wafflewizard1 0.00
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Galaxies and DSO for sure 
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KuriousGeorge 1.20
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Galaxies and DSO for sure 


Ah, I'd seriously look at a "Galaxy killer" setup I used for many years with samples in my gallery. You can save many $s by buying used and/or downgrading some of this equipment, especially the camera, filter wheel and filters being replaced by a cooled CCD or CMOS color camera. But a DSLR would not be my first choice for Galaxies and DSOs. And I would select the very best mount in your cost range. Many mounts will perform so poorly that you'll quickly get frustrated.

Celestron 8" EdgeHD scope
Losmandy G11 mount
QSI 660 WSG camera (with internal filter wheel and integrated guide camera port)
Starlight Express Ultrastar
Astrodon L,R,G,B 1.25" filters

https://www.astrobin.com/333382/
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Howzat 1.20
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You are on the right lines but the mount you have specified is not good enough for astrophotography. Also a DSLR is ok to start bot a dedicated astronomy camera will give you much better data. I started the hobby in January and bot have i learnt a lot in that time. The main thing about galaxies is getting lots of data. i use a mono cooled camera with filter wheel and try to get at least 5 hours data comprising individual 5-10 minute sub-frames. Getting good frames of this length requires accurate tracking and the mount is key to this. IF you can go for an HEQ5-Pro. i know they are a lot more expensive so look for a second hand one in good condition. With poor tracking and an overloaded mount you will get very frustrated. Also if you are set on a DSLR get a second hand Astro modded version of a canon. This will allow a bigger light spectrum and you will be able to shoot nebula. Standard cameras have an infra red filter. this blocks the amazing red glow from the Hydrogen Alpha gas in nebula and galaxies. Be prepared for hours of learning this hobby but remember when you see the first photo appear its all worth it! BTW if you go Canon get the software program Backyard EOS as it will run your setup for taking a sequence, also get PHD2 for tracking and learn both. There are no shortcuts in this hobby!!
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HH_Astro 0.90
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If I were you I'd try to get a second-hand eq6 and mono asi1600 camera with LRGB filters. If you are at all serious about imaging you'll just end up upgrading the mount and camera so I'd just try to get better ones to start.
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khrrugh 3.21
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Keep in mind that it's mostly the mount that makes the image. Start with a good mount and a cheap scope. The scope can easily be upgraded later when you know which direction you are heading (widefield vs. PN for example), but the mount can stay the same.
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wafflewizard1 0.00
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Alright. I'm gonna expand my budget a bit and get this heq 5 if i cannot find a second hand one within a month:
https://www.bintel.com.au/product/skywatcher-heq5-pro-dual/?v=322b26af01d5
Cheers for the info guys
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DaveMoulton 0.00
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Budget is always a consideration
id say looking at your shopping list that will get you going
You have followed the rules, putting the best part of your budget into the mount, good stuff
I would add that a full spectrum modified DSLR will do a bit more justice to those big Nebulas
Good luck
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Starstarter86 1.51
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On the scope: I have seen people do really great stuff with this one, but keep in mind you also need a coma corrector to make it work properly.

HEQ5 sounds like a good choice!

Budget is always a considerationid say looking at your shopping list that will get you going
You have followed the rules, putting the best part of your budget into the mount, good stuff
I would add that a full spectrum modified DSLR will do a bit more justice to those big Nebulas
Good luck


I agree with Dave, modified DSLR is a huge boost! If you are halfway capable with a screwdriver and maybe a soldering iron you can also go down the way I did: Buy a cheap dslr from ebay and do the mod yourself. Can be fun if you're so inclined ;)
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wafflewizard1 0.00
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Do you have information on how to remove the filter on the 1100d? Im more than happy to take it apart. Cheers!
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Starstarter86 1.51
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https://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/canon-drebel-t3-ir

I used their tutorial for my Nikon D3200. But I left the sensor "naked" and rather use an 2" Uv-Ir cut filter on my flattener
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velociraptor1 2.71
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Hi, I use Sky-watcher 130 PDS OTA for more than year now & it's fantastic small & portable OTA for DSO imaging. Particularly suitable for nebulae & open clusters. May not be great for small galaxies or planetary nebulae. But still good choice for beginner setup & value for money.
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jahnpahwa 0.00
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Yeah, there are lots of good images coming out setups just like the one that you're thinking about! The new, dual mount version of the HEQ5pro isn't totally necessary as a first set up, and a few places are getting rid of the old, Vixen only mounts for a few hundred dollars cheaper. Your newt won't come with a losmandy dovetail and by the time you're looking at stuff that does, you might also be looking at a heftier mount. A couple of hundred saved might be an IR/UV cut to replace your current filter when modding your camera, or even a rowan belt mod kit for the HEQ5 to make it even nicer

Just a thought!
JP
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matthew.maclean 3.97
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The other good tutorial on modifying DSLR's is:
http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html
There is some risk in doing it of course, but I have been successful with both a 1000D and an 1100D. The main thing to remember is to be careful removing all the ribbon cables and be sure that they are fully seated when re-attaching them.

Like a couple others have said, the ramifications of doing the full-spectrum modification are that the camera becomes sensitive to IR light and you need to have a filter to block that somewhere in the imaging system. The other issue is that removing the filter glass adjusts the focus point of the camera somewhat. This doesn't matter for telescopes but it can prevent the camera from being able to focus-at-infinity with DSLR lenses (doing Milky-Way shots for example).  A company called Astronomik does make a clear (non-blocking) replacement glass for most of the Canons to restore this:
https://www.astronomik.com/en/photographic-filters/mc-glass-for-dslr-astromodification.html
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Jaredg 0.00
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Good day everyone!

Warning: really new guy alert!

I am currently looking at purchasing my first deep sky setup and I want to ask some advise please!

I currently have a nikon D850 (unmodded) and a Sigma 500mm f/4 sport lens. I am not really wanting to get a telescope or dedicated astro camera but rather use this setup as is.

I live under bortle 8 skies.

I am considering a celestron avx mount, optolong UHC Filter and some guiding equipment.

My question is, what kind of results can I reasonably expect from such a setup (D850, 500mm, Celestron Avx and guiding under bortle 8 skies)?

I really appreciate any feedback anyone has for me. I want to make sure I won't waste money on a setup that won't work .

Thank you again!
Jared.
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