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Hi there, I am considering upgrading my setup with narrowband filters/wheel but first wanted to know if it works to shoot SHO with a DSLR? If anyone has any experience with such, can they please share? One question I have is if I then need to set my DSLR settings to be shooting monochrome? Thanks! |
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| Additionally, if narrowband imaging (in SHO) can achieve usable results; would I then ditch my light pollution filter or use it in addition to the SHO filters? |
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| You'd get the very best resuits with a cooled monochrome camera and filter wheel. Prices have come down. |
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You'd get the very best resuits with a cooled monochrome camera and filter wheel. Prices have come down. Thanks! I think I’ll get the filters/wheel first and experiment a bit before acquiring the camera... but don’t doubt that experience will make me want the cooled monochrome sooner than later. |
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| If you have not modded your dslr to use the full spectrum then you won't see any result with line filters (Ha and SIII) I'd suggest mod the dslr, go with narrowband filter - L-enhance, L-Extreme, STC Duo, etc and see if you can get great results. After that move on to filter wheels with cooled CMOS. |
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I don't know of any way to use a filter wheel with a DSLR. To your original question, the only way to do a "Hubble Palette" with a DSLR would be to get separate SII, Ha, and OIII clip in filters and shot with the filters separately. That way you have separated the SII and Ha from each other show you can combine in the SHO (Hubble) palette. But a much simpler solution is to get a multi-band filter like the STC Duo or the quad or tri-band filters OPT and others sell. These will not to SHO but they will do something like HOO or SI/Ha-O-O. Since they pass more than one band at the same time, you would only need to shoot one sequence instead of three. The problem with Hubble Palette and a color camera is that the SII and Ha both end up in the red channel of the color image. There are two other problems that a DSLR presents when shooting narrowband: 1) Unless the camera has been modified, there is a filter to block the Ha bandwidth (and probably the SII as well). So this will force you to shoot a lot longer and sacrifice the strongest signals in the emission nebula. 2) Narrowband generally requires pretty long exposure times, and since the DSLR is not cooled dark noise can grow quite strong and be a problem. All of this is the reason that it's recommended to use a cooled, mono camera and filter wheel. But if you don't want to invest too much, get a multi-band filter, point it at a pretty bright narrowband object and have some fun! |
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Kevin Morefield: Sure sounds like it! It sounds like waiting to upgrade to a mono camera and filter wheel simultaneously is ideal. Is it possible to shoot narrowband with a color camera such as the 183MC Pro (color) or is it worth the extra few hundred dollars for the mono? Thanks! |
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I really like the photos of Vincent with Dslr and clip filter: https://www.astrobin.com/users/Vincent_Caron/ |
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Is it possible to shoot narrowband with a color camera such as the 183MC Pro (color) or is it worth the extra few hundred dollars for the mono? My advice is go for the mono. Then you can truly to the the channel narrowband mixes and you can use luminance in your broad band to improve signal to noise and/or speed up the capture time. |
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Kevin Morefield: Sounds like a plan. Looking forward to making that upgrade! |
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| I do not know how old this thread is but what if your dslr/mirrorless has been modified to Ha? Would you still have the need of getting the Ha filter? Or just S and O would suffice? |
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Yes, you still need the filters. The sensor modification actually _removes_ the filter from your DSLR that blocks most of the deep red wavelengths (including the Ha/S2 light). This allows the sensor to now see it. However, if you want to isolate it (like you do for the SHO emissions), then you need to use the Ha filter. Having written that, using individual narrowband filters on a color camera sensor is pretty inefficient. The dual bandpass filters (like the offerings from Optolong, Askar, Antlia, etc) are far better choices for a DSLR. |
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Agree with Jonny here. I want to add that while modifying the DSLR and using a multi-band filter are definite improvements and viable solutions, you still have the problem of not separating the SII from the Ha (both will be in the red channel) and bleeding Hydrogen signal into the green and blue channels. So you won't get the full separation of structure and color you get with Mono. That said, the cost of modifying the DSLR and buying the multi-band filter are a good way to find out if this hobby is important enough to you for the additional mono expense! |
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| The cost of a set of pair of Ha/Oiii and Sii/Oiii is pretty close to a set of decent filters for a mono camera. I have seen promising results from the ZWO and SVBony Ha/Oiii dual band filter and they cost half of what many other filters cost. It depends on where you see you imaging going. If you are going to stay with OSC then by all means buy the good filters, if mono is in your near future, buy a less expensive dual band. |
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| Understood correctly. Been trying to avoid getting a new camera but seems like monochrome is the best route to go alongside a filter wheel. It should pair nicely with my redcat71, just not beautifully with my pockets 🥵 hehe time to get rid of the modded A7 and get a ZWO camera! Thank you guys for this helpful information! |
