What astronomy / astrophotography software do you use? Anything goes · Steven Fanutti · ... · 26 · 964 · 24

sfanutti 0.00
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Hello fellow AstroBin users,

I was wondering what astronomy software fellow users use to plan their astronomy / astrophotography sessions and to process images. To start off, here's my list:

Automatic Stacking: ASTAP and Siril. I used to use DeepSkyStacker, but I use 100% Mac now. ASTAP has worked well for me, but I've had some great success stacking solar and lunar images with Siril. I also tried Observatory from the App Store.

Manual Stacking and Image Processing: GIMP. I used to use Photoshop Elements 12, but GIMP has what I need. When automatic stacking fails, I use GIMP to manually stack. For some of my image processing, I prefer GIMP and manually stacking.

Image Conversion: Darktable. I use it to convert RAW images to PNG and TIF format for stacking and processing.

Planetarium: Kstars, Stellarium, Cartes du Ciel. For visuals, I prefer Stellarium, but to print charts on paper or PDF, I prefer Cartes du Ciel. I also used Cartes du Ciel to check the dates that my custom software generates for accuracy (see below). The dates my software predicts are pretty accurate, especially for Venus. I've also used Oracle XE to generate the lunar phases for the next several decades: Export_Lunar_Phases_OXE.pdf

Custom Software: I program my own software, so that I am not dependant on other programs to find out conjunction dates, opposition dates and lunar phases. I also wrote a program that displays current SDO images so that I can check how active the Sun is. Here's a screen capture of a few of the programs that I wrote:

Screenshot 2024-01-25 at 6.51.20 AM.png
Here are some examples from my photos of the results of stacking software used to create them. All were edited in GIMP.

ASTAP


Mars


Siril


Waxing Gibbous Moon


GIMP


Eta Cygni


If you would like some help with any astronomy software project that you are working on, let me know. I prefer to work with Java and SQL, but I know other programming languages as well.

Thanks for reading,

@Steven Fanutti
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Starminer68 2.41
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I use the following software: 
Planetary imaging-SharpCap (updated), processing-Autostakkert, Registax, WaveSharp, AstroSurface
DSO imaging-NINA, processing-DSS, Siril, Fitswork,Maxim, AstroSurface
I tried PI, but my laptop was too old for this advanced software
Clear skies!
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Semper_Iuvenis 2.10
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Image acquisition - APT; PHD2; ASTAP; ASCOM; hardware drivers -  on a NUC mounted on the rig. 
Processing - PixInsight. 
Session planning quarterly forecasts - Stellarium and Excel

Imaging with two rigs, I try to keep things as simple as I can while running fully supported software on a robust hardware platform.
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sfanutti 0.00
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I also tried Panorama Stitcher Mini from the App Store.

Here's a panorama I created from images I took years ago. These are combined images I took using a Vixen Polarie mount and a 24 mm lens.
IMG_7840+__+7849-1_IMG_7862+__+7871-1_scaled.jpg

Here's another stitch of the same area taken at 50 mm using my semi-tracked method (camera piggybacked on AZ-mounted telescope, periodically adjusted using eyepiece for aiming). I was testing the feasibility of taking Milky Way photos using this method and it was successful.
6185AE80_2FBD_435B_98F1_620_64B92AA1_3C27_4085_B3F8_C42_scaled.jpg

If I use this software more often, I may upgrade to the full version.

@Steven Fanutti
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si-cho
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Adel Kildeev:
tried PI, but my laptop was too old for this advanced software


I have PI license however, the last version will not run on my computer anymore...so, either I move into SIRIL or I must buy a new computer...more likely the first option .
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Starminer68 2.41
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Claudio Tenreiro:
Adel Kildeev:
tried PI, but my laptop was too old for this advanced software


I have PI license however, the last version will not run on my computer anymore...so, either I move into SIRIL or I must buy a new computer...more likely the first option .

***Sorry to hear  I tried Siril for stacking and got weird results -thousands of damaged pixels, probably, I was wrong and mix something up or it was a problem with bad flats or darks… I should try again with new lights, darks and flats. DSS is not bad but has no brain at all, refuse to callibrate the same camera and scope images, very primitive and outdated software.
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DalePenkala 15.85
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For me the following.

Data Collection: SharpCap Pro, PHD2, MaxPoint, OnStep (OnStep is really for just 1 of the 2 rigs I use)
Processing DSO: APP, PI 
Processing Planetary: Registax & Auto Stakkert 
Post Processing: PI, APP, Gimp, Topaz DeNoise
Planetarium: Cartes, du Ceil, & Sky Safari Pro 7

For planning my sessions I like Sky Safari Pro, but every once in a while there isn’t something in the databases and I need to look it up I’ll find it in CDC. 

FYI: MaxPoint is a point software that integrates with any planetarium software. You build a pointing model and it calculates and offsets it for more accurate GoTo’s. With this software I don’t need to use platesolving.

Dale
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sfanutti 0.00
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Screenshot 2024-01-25 at 10.29.03 AM.jpgAdel Kildeev (Starminer68)
Claudio Tenreiro:
Adel Kildeev:
tried PI, but my laptop was too old for this advanced software


I have PI license however, the last version will not run on my computer anymore...so, either I move into SIRIL or I must buy a new computer...more likely the first option .

***Sorry to hear  I tried Siril for stacking and got weird results -thousands of damaged pixels, probably, I was wrong and mix something up or it was a problem with bad flats or darks… I should try again with new lights, darks and flats. DSS is not bad but has no brain at all, refuse to callibrate the same camera and scope images, very primitive and outdated software.

With Siril, I sometimes get a newspaper-like texture when zoomed in that limits the amount of processing that I can do.
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Starminer68 2.41
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Nobody is perfect 😟 Siril sometimes crashes in noise reduction and other funcions.Autostakkert also give weird pixel picture sometimes
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Skholman 0.00
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Hello, my weapons of choice are:

Session planning: Telescopius.Com, my own spreadsheets in Airtable and Excel
Image acquisition: Sharpcap for polar alignment, PHD2, APT
Stacking and processing: GraXpert for background extraction, Siril
Postprocessing: Luminar 4, Affinity Photo (just to host NoiseXterminator plugin at the moment)

Sergei
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Chandrasekhar_Kapppagantula 0.00
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Hey, this is my first time making a forum post: 

For planning I use Stellarium and a phone app to frame up my targets. I also use Astrobin to see what others have done with similar gear. 
For stacking and most of my processing I use Siril with STARNET, and Topaz DeNoise for denoising
For some later processing I use GIMP (usually just saturation adjustments and a few curves)

Finally I get the photo onto my phone and do some very final adjustments before posting and calling it final. 

ps in my limited experience Siril works better than DSS when stacking images
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CN_Astrophotography 4.01
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For planning, I use Stellarium and my own knowledge on DSO's out at the given time of year, Astrospheric and my local weather sites for weather

I use the ASIAir Plus system for acquisition 

My processing of the data currently is:
Deep Sky Stacker followed by Photoshop with the plugins Star Xterminator, Gradient Xterminator and Noise Xterminator from RC Astro.

In December of last year I did a trial of PixInsight and I did find it so much more powerful than photoshop on the few targets I was able to do with it.  I also used it with the Blur Xterminator trial.  Sadly, these are expired and I don't have the funds to buy the licenses... yet..  but soon haha.
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Ecliptico 1.91
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Hey everyone! Good topic here. When it comes to imaging, I mostly use open source/free software. I might be missing some great features in PI, but to be honest, I would have to spend a lot of money on a decent computer to run PI, and I'd also need to add the license cost to the total amount. So, I had to take a different route.
I use NINA for my imaging sessions although I still have to use SGP and Maxim DL every now and then. I have a license for these two and they tend to work better with my vintage rig. I stack my subs using ASTAP (needless to say, I plate solve using astap too). Sometimes I need to tweak the settings on ASTAP, particularly moving from Astro C to Astrosimple when I get weird patterns on the final stack. I then use SIRL for processing and GIMP for postprocessing.
Cartes du Ciel is my planetarium pick as it performs faster on my mini pc than Stellarium does. Furthermore, CDC seems a bit more intuitive to me, full-featured and straightforward in its use.
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BryanHudson 1.20
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I capture and stack using ASIAir Plus.
Edit FIT files using Pixinsight, Lightroom and Photoshop.

Here is my basic workflow: https://youtu.be/X6qKb6wcsSQ?si=QW3Dk2SNPn0p4X3Z

Doing more lately with PI, including using GraXpert when needed and doing better with calibration frames.
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Ocbyrum 0.00
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Hey guys,

I use the ASIAir-Pro for data acquisition and guiding.  I use SharpCap to take my flats and darks.

I like DSS for stacking.  Processing is with PI.  I am amazed by DBE for getting rid of gradients from my city lights here in Orange County, CA.  BlurXTerminator and NoiseXTerminator are just game changers.  I use StarNet++ for star removal.  I finish photos off with PhotoShop to make any final adjustments to the black point.  Then a little Local Contrast Enhancement to pick up a bit more detail.  Finish off with signature and labelling before saving as a JPEG.  

Clear skies.  Seriously, need some clear skies... 
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sfanutti 0.00
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Here are some examples that I did purely in GIMP using manual stacking and editing. I took the original photos about a decade ago using a telephoto zoom lens on a Vixen Polarie. I was attempting to capture the Veil Nebula, but only captured a trace of it. I didn't use any special filters at the time and I was about a year into astrophotography.

Here's a single unprocessed image. It's not much to look at:
VN_01-1.jpg

Here's the result after stacking and some basic editing:
VN_IMG_2743+__+2751 (2)_1+3.jpg

And here's the final edit that I just completed, with "new" noise reduction techniques that I learned. I didn't take any flat or dark images at the time and the vignetting is quite obvious:
VM_IMG_2743+__+2751 (2)_1+6.jpg

Here's the same area reprocessed, taken with a larger telephoto lens on a fixed mount. I found that untracked astrophotography greatly reduced vignetting because the sky glow gets distributed more evenly across the image. I also learned that although short exposures don't really bring out faint deep sky objects, they are excellent for bringing out star colours:
VM_IMG_7467+__+7486 (1)_1+7_S-Curve_Edited-4.jpg

Here's a technique that I learned in GIMP for noise reduction. Make use of the Gaussian blur feature. Here's generally how to do it:

(1) If your image has layers, flatten the image. This will be your Background layer.
(2) Duplicate the Background layer and apply a modest blur (Size X, Size Y ~0.75). Call this layer "Star Blur" and place it above the Background layer. Set the opacity to 100%.
(3) Duplicate the Background layer again and set it as the top layer. This time, apply a very strong blur (Size X, Size Y ~255). Call this layer "Sky Glow Blur) and set the opacity to 50%.
(4) Flatten the image and apply your brightness, contrast, etc. adjustments.

Also save every version as a new file so that if you make a mistake, you can go back without necessarily having to start over. I export my files in JPG, PNG, TIF and PSD formats in addition to saving the XCF files. That way, if I decide to switch software, I can switch over easily.

I applied this exact technique to an old image of Dubhe where I was privileged to have my heavy telephoto lens piggyback mounted on a tracked telescope. This was also done purely in GIMP, ISO 3200, 10 x 30s exposures:

Dubhe_IMG_2310+__+2320 (2)_1+4.jpg

So that's where my photo processing is at present. Although manually stacking can be tedious and time consuming, it gives you full control over processing. I wanted a processing method that I could always rely on in case automatic stacking fails.

@Steven Fanutti
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Starminer68 2.41
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Interesting and usefull information…. Or to use cooled mono camera with narrowband filters, having good master darks and flats… and great results without complicated manipulations with background settings…. Just an idea 🥸
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sfanutti 0.00
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Here's Mars reprocessed using the process I mentioned above. The final version is a little softer, but I prefer it that way for on screen viewing. 255 images stacked at ISO 6400, 150 mm, exposure time only about 2s each.

Mars

Adel Kildeev:
Interesting and usefull information…. Or to use cooled mono camera with narrowband filters, having good master darks and flats… and great results without complicated manipulations with background settings…. Just an idea 🥸

Thanks @Adel Kildeev . I use a Canon EOS Rebel T3 DSLR on a camera tripod, fixed mount for everything now. Unlike many users, I am not using specialized astrophotography gear with the exception of a solar filter and a reticle eyepiece. The images I posted earlier were originally taken when I knew a lot less about astrophotography. I didn't even take dark frames back then. I do so now and it saves me from having to manually remove hot pixels. I went through many of my old photos trying to optimize and rescue photos that were taken in less than ideal conditions. But I get your point, take images as well as possible at the telescope and do it right to minimize processing later. That applies to a camera + tripod setup as well.
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Starminer68 2.41
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Steven, I also started with Canon DSLR, for many DSO as galaxies and bright nebulas it may work pretty well. But there are some limitations, of course, and the price you have to pay. Cooled mono camera is the way to go, in my opinion.
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Chandrasekhar_Kapppagantula 0.00
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Steven Fanutti:
Here are some examples that I did purely in GIMP using manual stacking and editing. I took the original photos about a decade ago using a telephoto zoom lens on a Vixen Polarie. I was attempting to capture the Veil Nebula, but only captured a trace of it. I didn't use any special filters at the time and I was about a year into astrophotography.

Here's a single unprocessed image. It's not much to look at:
VN_01-1.jpg

Here's the result after stacking and some basic editing:
VN_IMG_2743+__+2751 (2)_1+3.jpg

And here's the final edit that I just completed, with "new" noise reduction techniques that I learned. I didn't take any flat or dark images at the time and the vignetting is quite obvious:
VM_IMG_2743+__+2751 (2)_1+6.jpg

Here's the same area reprocessed, taken with a larger telephoto lens on a fixed mount. I found that untracked astrophotography greatly reduced vignetting because the sky glow gets distributed more evenly across the image. I also learned that although short exposures don't really bring out faint deep sky objects, they are excellent for bringing out star colours:
VM_IMG_7467+__+7486 (1)_1+7_S-Curve_Edited-4.jpg

Here's a technique that I learned in GIMP for noise reduction. Make use of the Gaussian blur feature. Here's generally how to do it:

(1) If your image has layers, flatten the image. This will be your Background layer.
(2) Duplicate the Background layer and apply a modest blur (Size X, Size Y ~0.75). Call this layer "Star Blur" and place it above the Background layer. Set the opacity to 100%.
(3) Duplicate the Background layer again and set it as the top layer. This time, apply a very strong blur (Size X, Size Y ~255). Call this layer "Sky Glow Blur) and set the opacity to 50%.
(4) Flatten the image and apply your brightness, contrast, etc. adjustments.

Also save every version as a new file so that if you make a mistake, you can go back without necessarily having to start over. I export my files in JPG, PNG, TIF and PSD formats in addition to saving the XCF files. That way, if I decide to switch software, I can switch over easily.

I applied this exact technique to an old image of Dubhe where I was privileged to have my heavy telephoto lens piggyback mounted on a tracked telescope. This was also done purely in GIMP, ISO 3200, 10 x 30s exposures:

Dubhe_IMG_2310+__+2320 (2)_1+4.jpg

So that's where my photo processing is at present. Although manually stacking can be tedious and time consuming, it gives you full control over processing. I wanted a processing method that I could always rely on in case automatic stacking fails.

@Steven Fanutti

*** It's possible to adjust stacking settings in a program like Siril, and PixInsight. I'm not familiar with the latter, but I know it's possible. Additionally, it seems like your images could do with a better stretching method. I'd suggest looking into something like GHST (Generalized Hyperbolic Stretch Transformations) and perhaps background neutralization.  ***
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sfanutti 0.00
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Chandrasekhar Kappagantula:
Steven Fanutti:
Here are some examples that I did purely in GIMP using manual stacking and editing. I took the original photos about a decade ago using a telephoto zoom lens on a Vixen Polarie. I was attempting to capture the Veil Nebula, but only captured a trace of it. I didn't use any special filters at the time and I was about a year into astrophotography.

Here's a single unprocessed image. It's not much to look at:
VN_01-1.jpg

Here's the result after stacking and some basic editing:
VN_IMG_2743+__+2751 (2)_1+3.jpg

And here's the final edit that I just completed, with "new" noise reduction techniques that I learned. I didn't take any flat or dark images at the time and the vignetting is quite obvious:
VM_IMG_2743+__+2751 (2)_1+6.jpg

Here's the same area reprocessed, taken with a larger telephoto lens on a fixed mount. I found that untracked astrophotography greatly reduced vignetting because the sky glow gets distributed more evenly across the image. I also learned that although short exposures don't really bring out faint deep sky objects, they are excellent for bringing out star colours:
VM_IMG_7467+__+7486 (1)_1+7_S-Curve_Edited-4.jpg

Here's a technique that I learned in GIMP for noise reduction. Make use of the Gaussian blur feature. Here's generally how to do it:

(1) If your image has layers, flatten the image. This will be your Background layer.
(2) Duplicate the Background layer and apply a modest blur (Size X, Size Y ~0.75). Call this layer "Star Blur" and place it above the Background layer. Set the opacity to 100%.
(3) Duplicate the Background layer again and set it as the top layer. This time, apply a very strong blur (Size X, Size Y ~255). Call this layer "Sky Glow Blur) and set the opacity to 50%.
(4) Flatten the image and apply your brightness, contrast, etc. adjustments.

Also save every version as a new file so that if you make a mistake, you can go back without necessarily having to start over. I export my files in JPG, PNG, TIF and PSD formats in addition to saving the XCF files. That way, if I decide to switch software, I can switch over easily.

I applied this exact technique to an old image of Dubhe where I was privileged to have my heavy telephoto lens piggyback mounted on a tracked telescope. This was also done purely in GIMP, ISO 3200, 10 x 30s exposures:

Dubhe_IMG_2310+__+2320 (2)_1+4.jpg

So that's where my photo processing is at present. Although manually stacking can be tedious and time consuming, it gives you full control over processing. I wanted a processing method that I could always rely on in case automatic stacking fails.

@Steven Fanutti

*** It's possible to adjust stacking settings in a program like Siril, and PixInsight. I'm not familiar with the latter, but I know it's possible. Additionally, it seems like your images could do with a better stretching method. I'd suggest looking into something like GHST (Generalized Hyperbolic Stretch Transformations) and perhaps background neutralization.  ***

Thanks for the advice. Here's my technique applied to newer images, zoomed at 100%. On left before, on the right after. Both are processed stacks, but on the right, I applied the method that I described.
Screenshot 2024-01-26 at 1.26.29 PM_50.jpg
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Chandrasekhar_Kapppagantula 0.00
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@Steven Fanutti The background is definitely looking improved in the second one. Nice job! Also, if you do see any nebulosity in your images, I'd recommend using Starnet++ to separate the stars and the nebulosity out. You mentioned that you shot the veil nebula, and if you were to separate both and recompose the layers in a program like Siril or photoshop, it would allow you to stretch the nebula without making the stars gross. 

Not sure if you mentioned that in your workflow, so just pointing it out. 

Clear skies, 

Chandra
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bdm201170 2.11
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I use the following software:

I use the ASIAir-Pro Plus  for data acquisition and guiding.
Pegasus  for  calibration frames (flats). 
 Astro pixel processor  for  stacking 
Pixlsight for  processing ,some time for stacking

thank you

Brian
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sfanutti 0.00
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Thanks to everyone for responding. Much of the software mentioned I never heard of before. Good to know about alternatives if I decide to switch software.
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Starminer68 2.41
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Steven, this is an example how Siril may interpret data (I tried desaturate stars) 
M31 10_23-Siril-3_3.jpg
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