I printed a dark filter for my filter wheel, and started using it for bias frames and dark frames. I find it really convenient, because I don’t have to disassemble the rig to take those frames, just put the lens cap on, set the filter wheel, and start.
I haven’t tested it for darks longer than 10 seconds yet, we’ll see if there are light leaks affecting longer frames.
Now I’m just curious how many of you are using one.
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I picked one up on Agena, put it in a ZWO filter wheel, and shot perfect Darks for 30, 60, 180, and 300 seconds.
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Nope. When I image at home I just cover the rig with the Telegizmos and switch the the sii filter. At the observatory it's dark enough that the scope doesn't need to be covered at all just sii and go.
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I have a dark filter in my filter wheel because I am using a non-cooled camera, and I also want my setup to be fully automatic.
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It would save a lot of time if used in an EFW.
I might do this later.
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I am also using a dark filter in my filter wheel. But when shooting darks during daylight I additionally have to cover the whole rig as I somehow experienced little light leaks. And to really have no light leaks, I just unscrew the camera and put the plastic cap on. ![](https://cdn.astrobin.com/precise_bbcode/smilies/smart.png)
On the other hand, it is sometimes said that dark frames are no longer absolutely necessary with the latest CMOS sensors.
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No dark filter. My camera has a shutter.
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Peter Graf: I am also using a dark filter in my filter wheel. But when shooting darks during daylight I additionally have to cover the whole rig as I somehow experienced little light leaks. And to really have no light leaks, I just unscrew the camera and put the plastic cap on. ![](https://cdn.astrobin.com/precise_bbcode/smilies/smart.png)
On the other hand, it is sometimes said that dark frames are no longer absolutely necessary with the latest CMOS sensors. The plastic cap might not be enough for longer darks as IR will pass it.
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I find that with the (metal) lense cap on, I can take darks in daylight or at night, doesn't make any difference. No need to cover the scope.
In my old setup, I had some light leaks around the camera connection (Sony A7), but some laps of black tape solved the issue.
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Fritz: The plastic cap might not be enough for longer darks as IR will pass it. Thanks. Good point, as many cameras just have a clear glass filter in front of the sensor. Wouldn't that also be a problem with a 3D-printed dark filter?
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Peter Graf:
Fritz: The plastic cap might not be enough for longer darks as IR will pass it. Thanks. Good point, as many cameras just have a clear glass filter in front of the sensor. Wouldn't that also be a problem with a 3D-printed dark filter? Well, can't answer that as I have not the slightest idea about 3D printing. I use a metal cap which works fine for me
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I use one on my OSC rig, but not mono because all 7 positions are filled with filters. On my 5 position wheel with my OSC camera I put a dark filter in position 1 as extra protection from dust.
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Never bothered. Telescope has a cap (motorized Flats panel now, but same effect) and when I retake any Darks I typically wait for a cloudy night to do so anyway, so its Dark enough in the storage garage that it doesn't matter
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What would you use it for? I read the comments about darks, but those are an annual thing taken during the day in the garage or somewhere similar. Maybe for dark_flats? Of course I still need the t-shirt for the flats.
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Yes I use one in my setup. Is it really of any value? To be honest; I doubt it. For the darks itself it isn't really any help, as the "filter" won't give total darkness to the camerasensor. Consequently one still has to put the lid on the telescope.
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