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As a backyard astrophotographer, I was wondering how people choose when to take the scope outside and what to image? Right now, I can see a slot in the weather where I may get 3 hours on a target (maybe) on Thursday this week and then nothing for a few weeks. I would have liked to get more OIII on a target that I had in late November, but it is now too low on the horizon (frustrating). I have now gone on stellarium and looked at Thursday and tried to find a target ... I can find a few, but they will cross the meridian after about an hour of the clear sky window. Also, the moon is proving a pain for the next few weeks. I'm just looking for suggestions as to how to best choose a target and how to best optimise these small windows. |
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Hi Andy, telescopius.com can help you. There is a function allowing you to select a target and see according to your region when would be the best time to capture it. CS Martin |
3.97
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| I use an IOS app called SkySafari to target search. There are a number of apps with similar capability, but I like it’s features and interface the best. While there is a “Tonight’s Best Objects” list to look through and you can go through the main catalogs (Messier, NGC, etc.), the primary way I have used it is to look at what images others are posting here on Astrobin each season - whenever I see someone post a new target that seems like something I could try, I bookmark it in SkySafari using an Observing List that it highlights all the contents of on the sky map. I’ve collected about 160 goal objects at this point, so there’s almost always something that is in a good position at any time. |
2.11
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Hi Andy, I try to keep an evolving list of targets that I want to capture and have sequences queued up in NINA ready to go as needed. I choose targets using Stellarium, but any of the tools other have mentioned are good for that. Been getting a similar experience to you here on the east coast of Australia over the last three months. I think I have only manage 6 nights of imaging over that time with one or two nights only being a couple of hours. I keep track of it all via a spreadsheet so for each target, I know when I last imaged it, what the details I used and how much time I have to date on each filter. By doing this, I have options ready to go to suit the situation. A copy of my tracking sheet is attached with some of the targets that I am chasing as an example. Session Register.xlsx |
6.77
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Depends on a lot of things..Either way, I try and plan most with "Stellarium" + a healthy amount of weather apps (who usually all say something different about the weather) Amount of targets: I tend to have a rolling 3-4 targets going at a any given time, instead of trying to focus on one target for a night. And those are usually targets that are up at different times in the night. One between 20:00-23:59, the other 00:00 until 04:00 for example. This already allows you to work on a target that fits in a window. So if you know you only have a clear window between 20-23:00, you instantly know which target you are working on and can shoot... Even if that means I only get 2-3 hours of data, it ads up in the long run. It just means that projects can take weeks. And yes, there are projects that I've started, and haven't been able to finish because the "season" for them is over. but..... So be it.... you save your data, and ad more to it next year. Keep track of what data you have, keep track of what you still need. It's the nature of the game I'm afraid. And I tend not to image with the mindset that I have to do 1 pic or 1 target per night. It's a hobby of patience. Other factors that determine how I shoot and try to maximise my projects: Weather: obviously. If you only have a xx hour window to do something, you pick a target that's high enough above the horizon in that window and in the direction of the clear sky. Location: Depending on how and where you live, you might be limited to your view. For example. My main view is from "north west to south", meaning anything "east" isn't going to work. Also, I can't shoot straight up. I shoot from a balcony that is partly covered. So. again.. this limits my targets and when I can shoot them. Moon: like you said, the full moon is a b*tch sometimes. It always seems to come out when you want to collect OIII data. So I either do it when the moon hasn't risen yet, is far away from the target. Or I just focus on Ha or SII instead on those nights.. It also means that, on moon-less nights, I might ONLY be shooting OIII data on 1-2 different targets that night. Yes that's not going to create a final image, but I'd rather have the OIII data in the bank already. Getting a head start: I sometimes plan in a target quite early in the "season". For example, a few months ago a certain Nebula was already in view for me from about 03:30-4 in the morning.. so when I could image I'd often plan the last hour from 03:30-04:30 on that target to get a head start on the project.. By the time I actually focus on that nebula, I already had 5-6 hours on the project. Gear: I run 2 rigs. Thinking about a third rig (eventually). Obviously this helps immensely with your issue. It allows me to turn a 3 hour imaging window into 6 hours worth of data. So that's the biggest game changer. And either use both rigs on 1 target, or 2 different targets. As for the Meridian, it shouldn't be a dealbreaker, even if it can be a bit annoying. So.. sorry to say: deal with it. Or focus on another target until your original target has passed the meridian. Another thing; getting into planetary / solar / lunar imaging. for most the nebula and galaxy images are the main goal, same for me. But.. I have done a bit of solar imaging and planetary imaging for a bit of fun. You simply don't need the hours of clear skies for it, meaning it's an enjoyable way to do at least a part of the hobby when the weather is a bit "meh".. even a gap in the clouds can then be enough to at least have some astrophotography fun. |
2.11
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I'm still fairly new but I normally try to get specific targets I WANT during their peak times in my sky (normally based on telescopious but there are many other options). I don't image under 35 degrees. I narrowband image from bortle 8 skies so my flow is to normally try to run 1 single filter throughout the night. (I need the total integration so this just makes it easier on me with calibration frames etc). This is best scenario of course and the skies don't normally work out so I adjust when needed. I don't even attempt RGB unless there is no moon out given my location. Normally I just go for RGB stars anyways. My patience has gotten much better since starting a little over a year ago and now if I see bad seeing I don't even attempt to set up. I also have the ability to run two rigs so if my impatience gets the best of me I'll just throw the smaller rig out and hope for the best on nights that aren't the best. Don't forget, those bad seeing or spotty cloud nights are great for testing things. |
0.90
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I have a tool that I call Astro Mosaic Telescope Planner. It has some remote telescopes listed but it can show your own telescope at any location by configuring it through the Url. I have a few catalogs (NGC, IC, ...) in the tool that you can filter for example by visibility (how high they are on the sky) and distance from the moon My tool is here: https://ruuth.xyz/AstroMosaic.html For more you can check the info page: https://ruuth.xyz/AstroMosaicInfo.html Configuration details are here: https://ruuth.xyz/AstroMosaicConfigurationInfo.html Jarmo |
11.07
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I keep a list of framed targets in CCDAutopilot so I can revisting them from year to year with the exact rotation and framing. This will go on till I get enough data for a decent image. Early on, I just tried to get what I could that night but after a few years I don't feel the urgency to finish an image with short or subpar data - better to wait. So I have a lot of unfinished projects... I use my Bookmarks here on Astrobin (though waiting patiently to be able to sort by RA some day), I have a list on my iPad version of the TheSkyX (which does sort by transit time, and I also use the old CCD Navigator. But since my backyard is Bortle 7/8 I'm limited to Narrowband objects with a reasonable amount of OIII so that really knocks down the potetntial target list. Plus I have a lot of trees and there's no hope of imaging between November and April due to weather. That makes deciding easier  |
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Hi, I raised a similar question here a while ago: https://www.astrobin.com/forum/c/astrophotography/other/planning-process-and-planning-software/ Based on the advice I got currently I'm mainly using Telescopius in combination with Stellarium. I had a look at Astroplanner but so far couldn't see a reason to justify the cost for the licensed version. I choose my targets based on - examples here at astrobin by people who are using the same focal lengths as me. - Astrophotography Sky Atlas by Charles Bracken - 50 Best Astrophotography Targets for Beginners by Allan Hall My process looks like this: - I compiled a prioritized list of targets from the 3 sources quoted above - I check via telescopius which of my targets is at the sky at the time I'm able to photograph - and if the moon is out how it relates to the position of the moon. - For the remaining candidates I then check in Stellarium for the detailed position and distance of the moon and create some screenshots that will help me find the subject manually in case there's a problem with the platesolving algorithm. - For my session I always prepare at least one target in another area of the sky in case some unexpected clouds roll in and prevent me from capturing my initial target. Best regards Wolfgang |
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Hi Andy, I’ll quite often start with a search here filtering for images taken around 7 days, scrolling through the thumbnails you quickly identify those targets that are within your focal length. Next step I’ll use stellarium or sky safari, etc.. and check out where the moon is going to be in relation. Sometimes the moon set or rise means it is still possible to image if you pick your time window to fit. Leads me on to automation, for me being able to set up my rig and use software to grab images, possibly a couple of targets a night has been a game changer. I use Nina and am a big fan of its star atlas, showing the altitude of targets, a local horizon file also lets me figure out if I can drop a target early and move on to something else. Tonight in fact is a good example, switching from M42 to California around midnight due to next doors roof. :-). Automation also extends when I can image, setting alarms for 2 am to go and image would test my stamina and probably would mean I’d be limiting myself to weekends in many cases. Of course as many others have said looking at various weather apps and deciding which you trust this week is a prerequisite! |
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Every one of the many valuable planning considerations, plus many more that haven’t been mentioned, are covered by Astroplanner. My personal Astroplanner database grew from importing a few target lists (from in the app itself), then refined by my equipment and location(s). I add to it regularly when I see something in the forums that looks likes they might be a good target. When I add that target (via the catalogs in the app itself) I can immediately see whether this is going to be a good target for me or not. I can immediately see what time of year, specifically what day is going be the best day to photograph it. I can sort all my targets by transit date with a mouse-click so even though there might be a half dozen targets that are good tonight there might be another one I haven’t even thought of but tonight is the best night of the year to capture it. You can’t make decisions like that unless you have all the information, and Astroplanner gives it to you quickly and easily. When the forecast says I’m gonna have a clear night four nights from now, it only takes me seconds to see what will be my best targets, I just sort my list by “observability” that takes mini planning factors into consideration including time, location, horizon, moon, angular separation from the moon, etc. There are far too many things that app does for me to list here, planning without it almost seems random. No it’s not free, but compared to what this hobby costs in other areas, it’s a mere pittance and if you don’t get the planning right upfront you’re going to be missing prime opportunities. I am in no way connected to the product, but an extremely happy user. |
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I have found Astrospheric (android app) very helpful to alert me when the weather conditions meet my requirements. It has a lot of forecast details including cloud coverage, atmospheric turbulence, smoke, surface pressure, wind, temperature and dew point. I get alerts a few days in advance so I can plan around it. It only costs $0.99 per month for alerts, but it's free without them. Worth every penny IMO. I've spent hours browsing stellarium.org for deep sky objects. (they have a mobile app too) I can find objects that I want to image and favorite them. It also gives you details on the object magnitude (how bright) and size which is helpful. In the mobile app, you can also configure your lens/camera size to help get an idea of how big the object will be in your frame. This app also helps me find the object in the sky at night. |
2.41
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Martin Dufour: I use the same technique as @Martin Dufour . Probably to an OCD level even. I use Telescopius to plan targets, save targets by month(create observation lists), check off targets as I capture, make comments on what I would like to do next with the target(OSC/NB/RGB), and use it as a tool to keep track of my future to-do targets. When there's a batch of cloudy nights(weeks even lately), I go through my lists and arrange future months with the to-do targets in that month's list of items. Not only can you use the site to plan your observation times for your area's best horizon altitude times or months, you can browse nearby targets in that same constellation. I also find it useful to bring up when I'm out at night and have it running at startup time when using NINA for initial framing and slewing. If an unlucky cloud bank is right over that night's target when setting up, I'll switch to the browser session with Telescopius and search for another interesting target in a different constellation that appears to not have any pesky clouds at the moment. |
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I guess in this regard, I'm old school. I use the IOS app Star Rover to see what constellations are well positioned during my available observing times and then pull out my beloved copies of The Night Sky Observer's Guide and plan an observing schedule. |
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i have in stellarium my backyard added as landscape. So i can see where all is and to avoid the trees and high houses. i have my scopes permanent, if you can do that,it will save allot of time. just open the roof and start imaging,instead of setting all up,polar align etc. And the most important part,when its a clear night, just go sit in the dark and get familiar how all the constallations goes by,see where the east is ,the south with the meridian and the west. If you follow those,imaging will be easyer. Have fun !!! |
1.91
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Terrific suggestions! Thanks everyone! Another wrench in planning that I'm facing right now as far as what scope to use tonight ... wind. With 20mph gusts expected I normally would turn to a low profile SLR lens versus my SCT or medium refractor... but it's galaxy season and the moon is up too. Decisions decisions - narrowband due to the moon but what wide field narrowband targets from my backyard can I target during this time of year? Or go with an SCT and galaxies with shorter exposures (due to wind) and a target away from the moon? A lot of conflicting factors to consider and a lot of useful apps and suggestions from this thread to helps decide...good times ;) |
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from your location your really good in the center of all. Late in the night is cygnus up,and Ophiuchus too. early in the evening orion is still there and lot of surrounding nebulas too. you got allot to go..so have fun. |
6.45
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I started a notebook with a Target List in order of appearance for each month. Typed out on computer and printed out so I can view it at my leisure. Astrobin, Stellarium and Telescopius.com are fantastic resources to find new targets. I also have them labeled by size and filters so I know which telescope and filters to use when they come up. I have so many now that I divided them into two lists, Galaxies and Clusters, and Nebulas. I check them off as I capture them. It helps to know when your favorite targets are coming into view so you can prepare. I've been working on the list for over a year now and I'm still adding targets on a regular basis. One of my favorite book resources is "The 100 Best Astrophotography Targets" by Ruben Kier. |
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I am as well deciding on the basis of self prepared target list, sorted by constellation and category (narrow band y/n). There is one additional criterion as I operate my mount manually: after about 11.30pm I only pick targets that already passed the meridian even if that was not my first choice. I need some hours of sleep ;-) Thomas |
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Keeping a growing list of targets and noting when they are at opposition (peak), how high in the sky they get, their size, type, etc. has been very useful for me. I often get the data from Telescopius or from Stellarium manually if Telescopius does not list the target. A snippet from my spreadsheet is shown below with some current targets at opposition, altitude is based on where I live in the UK.  |
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For choosing targets, I am a big fan of the following books: "The Astrophotography Sky Atlas" by Charles Bracken "The Astrophotography Planner" also by Charles Bracken. This book is particularly helpful as targets are listed sequentially based on when the target is optimally placed for imaging. |
2.41
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- Start with telescopius or Stellarium Red/DSS Survey map to find something that looks cool and is up during this time of year - Check the same for framing, seek out photos on Astrobin or similar to verify difficulty - From there, fill in data during clear nights as is most efficiently captured based on the nebula's type of output light. Ex: Moon is near full but I'm after an emission region, then its Hα for the next few nights. Moon is down, I go broadband LRGB or Oiii - Continue until satisfied or other goals are met. Personally I got for 200 subs in whatever acts as my Luminance, and about 50 RGB each |
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